SD Bike Commuter - Tech Talk

Tech Talk

yoshi — Tue, 05 Apr 2011 13:31:53 -0700

I think I'm gonna ditch the old shimano 600 brake levers and go with some affordable tektro aero levers.

Tech Talk

Velo Cult — Tue, 05 Apr 2011 16:35:26 -0700

Most people do just that. Or if they still really want the classic look of non-aero they replace them with modern day Grand Compe levers which are really nice quality. We have these too.

Tech Talk

yoshi — Thu, 07 Apr 2011 10:58:46 -0700

What do you know about the early 80's Fuji Touring Series IV bicycle?

Tech Talk

billd — Thu, 07 Apr 2011 23:06:19 -0700

I think I've found the fattest 700c road tire made:

http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/big_apple

It's available in 29x2.35. The tire weighs nearly two pounds. It weighs more than some high end racing bike frames.

Tech Talk

bikingbill — Fri, 08 Apr 2011 07:26:29 -0700

billd:I think I've found the fattest 700c road tire made:

http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/big_apple

It's available in 29x2.35. The tire weighs nearly two pounds. It weighs more than some high end racing bike frames.

I have heard that it rolls quite well. What I found with the Marathon Plus (47-559) is that on poor surfaces it rolls easier than the Fatboys it replaced.

Tech Talk

Praxis — Fri, 08 Apr 2011 08:17:39 -0700

I've got a early 90's Shogun hybrid that just won't quit. It's really a satisfying feeling when you buy something and you're able to use it for a looong time. I commute on it about 5.5 miles in traffic, and it fits pretty well.

I don't really mind the flat bars (especially in heavier traffic and stops/starts), but they are finally starting to hurt my wrist over longer rides, and later in the week. It seems to me that drop bars with cross levers would be ideal, but that can be pricey. I was all set to pull the trigger and convert to threadless, drops, and 9-speed STI until I was browsing here and thought you guys might have some ideas. I did notice the swap meet is coming up, which may make it easier to find inexpensive older parts (current drivetrain is 7-speed, which is somewhat harder to find online; I do have the wider freehub for an easier upgrade if warranted)

The questions--am I missing some alternative that works as well as drops? It seems like the other bars (albatross, touring, etc.) don't tend to have quite as many positions, and are often wider than necessary (my flat bars are cut down). Are there drop-bar shifting/braking options that (seemingly) work as well in traffic as STI with cross levers? It seems that barcons would be difficult in traffic. I shift a lot but it seems shifting is something more easily worked around or delayed than braking. I like how the current rapidfires are always right at hand. Are there likely to be STI-like shifting options available inexpensively (<100, say) at the swap meet?

Other info: 1"steerer, threaded fork, cantilever brakes, existing gear range (13-30 48/38/28) is great but I wouldn't complain if it widened. I've considered bar ends but don't know if A) they're as comfortable as hoods, and B) I'm a bit leery of cruising with my hands away from the brakes.

Tech Talk

AlanKHG — Sat, 09 Apr 2011 17:38:01 -0700

Any handlebar with multiple positions has some away from the brakes. Bar ends are worth a shot, as is a trekking bar:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html
Both are sub-$20 options and compatible with your current shifters.

Tech Talk

t.e.d — Wed, 13 Apr 2011 12:25:14 -0700

I posted this in the touring and rough riding thread 'cause the problem I'm having is specific to that, but it was suggested I might get more help here, so here it is...

I'm starting to wonder if Chain-L is the best idea for mixed surface riding. It seems every time I hit some dirt, the chain is COATED with dust that is REALLY hard to remove, if at all. Since buying the bottle a couple months ago, I've had to clean, degrease, and re-apply every week and a half or so. Has anyone else had this problem? Am I just being too picky? What do mountain bikers use?

Tech Talk

bikingbill — Wed, 13 Apr 2011 12:37:49 -0700

I let my Chain-L chain get dirty. As long as it's well lubed, this doesn't seem to effect wear. I've gotten more miles on chains lubed with this than anything else.

Tech Talk

t.e.d — Wed, 13 Apr 2011 12:40:14 -0700

bikingbill:I let my Chain-L chain get dirty. As long as it's well lubed, this doesn't seem to effect wear. I've gotten more miles on chains lubed with this than anything else.

I notice a pretty big difference in shifting efficiency, and it's a lot noisier when it's dirty. I'm trying to make my cassette and rings last as long as possible, so I'd like to avoid any extra wear on them as well.

Tech Talk

bikingbill — Wed, 13 Apr 2011 13:05:11 -0700

t.e.d:
bikingbill:I let my Chain-L chain get dirty. As long as it's well lubed, this doesn't seem to effect wear. I've gotten more miles on chains lubed with this than anything else.

I notice a pretty big difference in shifting efficiency, and it's a lot noisier when it's dirty. I'm trying to make my cassette and rings last as long as possible, so I'd like to avoid any extra wear on them as well.

I'm probabily not getting much dirt on the chain, because I'm mainly on the roads and my chain is higher off the ground.

So, you may have to use very little lube and only on the pivots. Others will know better.

Tech Talk

t.e.d — Wed, 13 Apr 2011 14:21:39 -0700

That's what I do. Very little, and just dabbed on the pins, although, to lightly coat the drivetrain, like the instructions say, I spin the cranks in reverse for a few trips up and down the cassette. After that, I wipe the excess, but it still manages to pick up quite a bit.

Tech Talk

Velo Cult — Wed, 13 Apr 2011 14:40:25 -0700

Ted, you need to wipe off the chain every ride or two. I wipe mine probably every two rides. I don't re-apply, just wipe. It will seep out constantly so every couple of days wipe it clean. If you don't it will collect any and all dirt around you. I use this on my rando bike but not on my mountain bikes, it's too dusty here for continual mountain bike use but I've found it acceptable for dirt accumulation on the rando so long as I keep it wiped down.

Tech Talk

t.e.d — Wed, 13 Apr 2011 15:19:06 -0700

Thanks. I'll wipe it down before I head home today. Is there a way to wipe the inside of the plates? If not, I'll just backpedal through a rag like usual.

Tech Talk

Velo Cult — Wed, 13 Apr 2011 15:27:47 -0700

I don't bother with the inside of the plates, just the outside. If you're doing more dusty trails than roads than I would suggest something else. The problem is the oils for dusty trails is they barely work and cause your chain and everything else to wear out super quick. It's a problem every mountain bike has to work work. Worn parts and clean chain or dirty chain and lots of cleaning.

Tech Talk

evster — Wed, 13 Apr 2011 20:19:15 -0700

Hey guys,

Long time no posts.

I got a question for you experts out there...

I've been getting into mountain biking lately and I've been looking to get a new mountain bike. I want a a steel frame hardtail, but I'm finding that those are really hard to come by these days unless you want to build one up from scratch.

But it got me to thinking... would it be an abomination to add a suspension fork to my Bridgestone MB-3?

What are your thoughts? Is it even possible? If so, how much should I be looking to pay for a decent, but not great, suspension fork?

I really like my MB-3, but I'm just not riding it much these days and I'd like to give it some new life. I've tried riding it with the rigid fork on some local trails, but I think my riding style is more suited towards a little suspension.

Thanks everyone!

Tech Talk

Velo Cult — Wed, 13 Apr 2011 21:01:19 -0700

The MB-3 is a great frame with Ritchey Logic tubing. You're going to have trouble with suspension though. The geometry is not designed for it so even a low travel fork will rake out the front end

The other problem you'll have is it's a 1" steer tube and 1" low travel forks have not been made for over a decade. If you can manage to find a good working Marzocchi bomber with 63mm travel and a 1" steer tube you'll be paying quite a lot for it. Lots and lots of people need that fork. I say Marzocchi because those are the only one's still re-buildable with readily available parts.

You're best bet is to find a modern mountain bike with a 1-1/8" steer tube. If you find a deal you can get one for the price of what that really rare first generation Marzocchi Bomber will cost.

Tech Talk

evster — Thu, 14 Apr 2011 10:05:57 -0700

Thanks VC for the quick advice.

Unfortunately you confirmed my two fears about the suspension. Right now that bike is set up in commuter mode with slick tires and a rear rack so I think I'll just keep it that way for a while.

Is there anything out there these days in the mountain bike world that you guys like as a complete build?

Tech Talk

bikingbill — Thu, 14 Apr 2011 10:47:48 -0700

This fork is available in a 1" steerer:

http://www.mountainracingproducts.com/white-brothers/loop/

- 650b, 26″, and 29″
- 650b/26″ Travel from 80-120mm and 130-150mm (internally adjustable)
- 29″ Travel from 80-120mm and 120-140mm (internally adjustable) (COMING IN JUNE)
- Aura Damper with magnetic valve technology
- Adjustable rebound, compression, and threshold
- QTapeR15 15mm tool-free through-axle
- 1″, 1 1/8″, and tapered (1.5-1 1/8″) steerer options
- White or Black with color-matched crown
- 4.1 LBS.

Tech Talk

Velo Cult — Thu, 14 Apr 2011 11:55:26 -0700

Bill, that fork is too long of travel. His Bridgestone as with most old mountain bikes is setup without suspension in mind. The fork I listed above is 63mm travel and the most you would want for a non-suspended geometry. Anything more than that you'll be riding a chopper. Pretty cool that White Bros is offering a 1" though. It's just a shame they don't offer a retrofit to drop the travel down, they would sell a lot more if they did.

Tech Talk

yoshi — Thu, 14 Apr 2011 12:20:51 -0700

I've got a 1" manitou skareb on my bontrager race-lite but I don't know how this geometry compares to the mb-3.

Tech Talk

bikingbill — Thu, 14 Apr 2011 12:34:40 -0700

Velo Cult:Bill, that fork is too long of travel. His Bridgestone as with most old mountain bikes is setup without suspension in mind. The fork I listed above is 63mm travel and the most you would want for a non-suspended geometry. Anything more than that you'll be riding a chopper. Pretty cool that White Bros is offering a 1" though. It's just a shame they don't offer a retrofit to drop the travel down, they would sell a lot more if they did.

There's another 1" fork I recall. No shocks, more of a scissors like setup. Low profile.

I'd also look for forks sold for 'city' bikes in the past. I recall one with the 'suspension' in the steerer, just below the bottom headset.

The other trick would be to see if a 24" suspension fork would work (with a 26" tire).

Tech Talk

Velo Cult — Thu, 14 Apr 2011 13:49:21 -0700

yoshi:I've got a 1" manitou skareb on my bontrager race-lite but I don't know how this geometry compares to the mb-3.

depends on what year your Race-Lite is. It is raked out a bit though, I can see it in the photo. BTW, I have Bontrager decals...

Compare the geometry to my Bonty. I too did a more modern build but did it with a 63mm travel Bomber which keeps the geometry in check.

Tech Talk

yoshi — Tue, 19 Apr 2011 15:33:13 -0700

Will a shimano 600 rear derailleur circa 1981 work with a modern 9-speed cassette (friction downtube shifters)?

Tech Talk

Velo Cult — Tue, 19 Apr 2011 15:39:38 -0700

With friction shifters you won't have any issues with shifting. The only issue you may have is if the swing of the derailleur doesn't go all the way to the low gear. The narrower chain has worked with in the past with old derailleurs when I have tried it so you shouldn't have an issue there.

Tech Talk

Praxis — Wed, 27 Apr 2011 11:24:38 -0700

yoshi:Will a shimano 600 rear derailleur circa 1981 work with a modern 9-speed cassette (friction downtube shifters)?

I am currently riding a 9-speed cassette with a 200GS rear derailleur (7 speed). It's only been a few days, but it's been mostly OK. The narrow chain is fine. Indexing (in my case) works reasonably well, and my only issue is probably that the old derailleur is just a bit less precise (pulleys with more play, etc), so I can hear a few times that the shift is off slightly. It *is* still new, though. I don't think friction would be a problem at all subject to the derailleur swing bit. When I was researching it I don't think I came across anyone who actually had a problem with the swing.

Tech Talk

Praxis — Wed, 27 Apr 2011 11:36:12 -0700

I've got a Frankensteinian drop bar conversion on my hybrid with cantis, but the cable routing from the front cross lever to the brake leaves something to be desired. I used a 1" threaded to 1/18 threadless stem converter, and an easily available threadless cable stop. With minimal/no bar drop, this means the cable stop is located fairly awkwardly relative to the lever because only 1 1/8 mounting location is directly under the stem (the bulk of the stem is 7/8).

I have since realized that cable hangers for threaded headsets are available; will that be the most satisfactory option (moving the attachment to the hanger further down) or should I do something like use a noodle, which I have also heard is sometimes used in this application? Currently I have the routing over the handlebars; I'm happy to leave it that way but it seems like there's a better solution. A shim, perhaps? Ugly, but I doubt the bike's getting any uglier.

Tech Talk

Fitz — Wed, 27 Apr 2011 12:13:23 -0700

Picked up a new bike recently with disc brakes - Salsa Vaya with Avid BB5 (road). When braking I get a very noticeable shudder from the front brake while slowing to a stop. If I'm braking from say 25mph, the first slowing act goes fairly smoothly, but then once the speed gets below maybe 5-8mph the shudder starts. My rear brake doesn't do this.

Is this common? Anything to worry about or have checked out?

Thanks.

Tech Talk

Velo Cult — Wed, 27 Apr 2011 13:15:21 -0700

Fitz:Picked up a new bike recently with disc brakes - Salsa Vaya with Avid BB5 (road). When braking I get a very noticeable shudder from the front brake while slowing to a stop. If I'm braking from say 25mph, the first slowing act goes fairly smoothly, but then once the speed gets below maybe 5-8mph the shudder starts. My rear brake doesn't do this.

Is this common? Anything to worry about or have checked out?

Thanks.

That would either mean that the rotor is warped or the front fork is not stiff enough to handle the forces of the disc brake. The fork not being stiff enough is most likely the culprit considering it happens at only certain slower speeds. So long as your front wheel is in real strong it shouldn't cause be dangerous. It'll be annoying though.

Tech Talk

Velo Cult — Wed, 27 Apr 2011 13:18:22 -0700

Praxis:I've got a Frankensteinian drop bar conversion on my hybrid with cantis, but the cable routing from the front cross lever to the brake leaves something to be desired. I used a 1" threaded to 1/18 threadless stem converter, and an easily available threadless cable stop. With minimal/no bar drop, this means the cable stop is located fairly awkwardly relative to the lever because only 1 1/8 mounting location is directly under the stem (the bulk of the stem is 7/8).

I have since realized that cable hangers for threaded headsets are available; will that be the most satisfactory option (moving the attachment to the hanger further down) or should I do something like use a noodle, which I have also heard is sometimes used in this application? Currently I have the routing over the handlebars; I'm happy to leave it that way but it seems like there's a better solution. A shim, perhaps? Ugly, but I doubt the bike's getting any uglier.

Yeah, go to a drop down 1" headset hanger. Or even do a fork mounted hanger. Both should solve the problem. Another solution is to run travel agent adapters and run V-brakes but this will cost some money.

Tech Talk

Praxis — Wed, 27 Apr 2011 13:38:41 -0700

Oh, hey, what do you know--a fork mounted hanger. Don't know why I didn't think of that. Thanks!

I don't mind cantilevers, although I'm not fond of adjusting them. Recently bought some wide Tektros to (possibly) improve braking a bit, and to hopefully cut down on adjustment long-term (cartridges).

Tech Talk

dstone — Sun, 01 May 2011 02:03:06 -0700

[Reposting from Buy/Sell/Trade]

I couldn't think of a more appropriate place to post, so asking this general question here...

Anyone have any experience with DZR/Mission Workshop SPD shoes? They are classy, hip, and compatible with non-SPD uses (to wit: walking around like normal). The price tag is, for me, frightening, however. But as far as I can tell, they are the nicest SPD shoes that can be used interchangeably for pedestrian and clipless biking use, and I need new shoes regardless (as in...why not kill two birds with one stone, since I don't have a set of SPD shoes either).

I was comparing them to Chrome SPD-compatible shoes (there seems to be ubiquitous mention of durability issues) and the Shimano casual/MTB oriented SH-MT22 shoes.

So, anyone have any comments, recommendations, or advice with regards to these shoes (or others that I haven't noticed)? Thanks in advance!

Tech Talk

1rider(Bryan) — Mon, 02 May 2011 14:41:43 -0700

I recently striped the thread on my crank. I am considering just cleaning out the de-threaded hole and slathering some jb weld into it, spraying some sort of lube on the pedal thread and threading it into the jb welded hole. Do I have any other options to repair it?

Tech Talk

bikingbill — Mon, 02 May 2011 15:18:32 -0700

1rider(Bryan):I recently striped the thread on my crank. I am considering just cleaning out the de-threaded hole and slathering some jb weld into it, spraying some sort of lube on the pedal thread and threading it into the jb welded hole. Do I have any other options to repair it?

There's inserts that can be tapped in for this purpose. At least there were in 1975.

Maybe not. But you could use a heli-coil. First you have to drill and tap the crank arm to a larger diameter so the helicoil can be threaded in. Some shops will do this for you, but often the cost is more than it would be to replace the crank arm.

Tech Talk

Velo Cult — Mon, 02 May 2011 15:43:10 -0700

Bill is right, we can fix that. It's not too expensive either.

Tech Talk

1rider(Bryan) — Mon, 02 May 2011 20:12:22 -0700

Great, thank you Bill. Sky I'll just bring it by the shop. Its not a a fancy crank but works well and I'd rather not replace it, thanks.

Tech Talk

Velo Cult — Mon, 02 May 2011 21:10:10 -0700

Even low end cranks cost more than the relatively cheap cost to fix the treads. And actually, the new threads will be stronger than the original threads.

Tech Talk

neal_d — Wed, 04 May 2011 17:23:57 -0700

dstone:[Reposting from Buy/Sell/Trade]

dstone,

A dude named Rick on the Taco Ride was sporting a pair of the DZRs with SPDs on his single-speed last night. He seems pretty happy with them. Said they weren't as stiff as his road shoes (natch) but they were pretty comfortable to walk with (no clickety-clacking).

Tech Talk

Paul — Fri, 06 May 2011 08:38:36 -0700

dstone:[Reposting from Buy/Sell/Trade]

Pearl Izumi has a few mountain/casual SPD shoes. Mine have survived a dog chewing and a lot of use and aren't "clicky" off the bike (plus they are vegan.) You can sometimes find them on clearance at REI

Tech Talk

bikingbill — Fri, 06 May 2011 09:47:30 -0700

On the Shimano Bar Cons, what's the best method at keeping the rubber covers on the shift levers from sliding off? My right one has this issue.

Tech Talk

batmick — Fri, 06 May 2011 10:12:26 -0700

Not sure if I should post this here or under "links" but this is a great website that gives a step by step illustrated guide on how to put a new battery in a Garmin Edge GPS.

http://www.jimcarson.com/2009/replacing-the-battery-in-a-garmin-edge-305/

I did mine yesterday and it was a piece of cake. Now my Edge will last longer than 3-4 hours again.

Tech Talk

Velo Cult — Fri, 06 May 2011 10:39:45 -0700

bikingbill:On the Shimano Bar Cons, what's the best method at keeping the rubber covers on the shift levers from sliding off? My right one has this issue.

We use Upholstery spray tack for grips that slip and that's what I would use for the barcon too. You can take a free squirt from us if you like. You won't use enough to warrant buying a fairly expensive aerosol bottle of it. I've used virtually every method out there and the uphostery tack has worked the best for me. It's something I discovered years and years ago because I was never satisfied with anything else. Works great on cork grips too.

Tech Talk

t.e.d — Thu, 12 May 2011 15:38:34 -0700

Why are nicer freehubs so much louder than cheaper ones? Is it the carbon that makes them resonate? I can hear a nice road bike a mile away.

Tech Talk

Sigurd — Thu, 12 May 2011 16:09:31 -0700

Having been designed this way, the owners deem it unnecessary to install a bell.

:face-monkey:

I have wondered the same - sound is vibration, and vibration requires energy - seems like all other things equal (which they never are), a quieter hub should be more efficient than a noisy one.

Tech Talk

PacMUle — Thu, 12 May 2011 18:11:37 -0700

i love the fact that mine makes practically no noise at all! i can barely hear it at all unless i am going really slow... i dont think i would wanna ride anything else!

Tech Talk

SDAirBrush — Mon, 16 May 2011 13:24:07 -0700

Adding gears to the KHS Solo 29er.
What would be set up for adding a 3 or 5 speed to the KHS Solo 29er. I would want a simple thumb shifter(Paul). Any recomendation on a derailuer system? It has the frame that accepts derailuers. THANKS!

Tech Talk

Velo Cult — Mon, 16 May 2011 13:33:19 -0700

I've run quite a few of my 29ers as external derailleur 3 speeds. I pick the three gears I want, space them correctly with steel spacers and weld the whole thing together as a cluster. If you run the cogs on by themselves they tend to cut through the spline on the cassette.

Usually I do 15t, 20t, and 23t with a 32t chainring. 20t being my regular single speed gear. This gives me a flat's/dowhill/pagement gear (14t) and a bailout gear for big climbs (23t). I started doing single speeds way back before there were even single speed specific parts on the market and after a while I just got tired of that one gear. I like riding fast, I like downhill's etc.

I run mine with a road rear derailleur and with old Shimano XT 7 speed thumb shifters. A Paul Thumbie works just the same too.

Tech Talk

bikingbill — Mon, 16 May 2011 13:50:08 -0700

I have a 'clunk' sound, once per rotation, when I am coasting with my rear Shimano 105 hub. It goes away when pedaling and also will sometimes will go away if you just pedal a bit and then coast.

Any thoughts on what would cause that?

Tech Talk

Velo Cult — Mon, 16 May 2011 13:55:52 -0700

If it's while coasting I would suspect it's a bad bearing or bad pawl in the freehub body. Would have to see it to know for sure but that's the first place I would look. Also see if there's a loose spoke on the drive side hitting hitting your cassette somehow.

Tech Talk

bikingbill — Mon, 16 May 2011 15:34:46 -0700

Velo Cult:If it's while coasting I would suspect it's a bad bearing or bad pawl in the freehub body. Would have to see it to know for sure but that's the first place I would look. Also see if there's a loose spoke on the drive side hitting hitting your cassette somehow.

No lose spokes on this wheel. I may just have to bring it in. The wheel build is so nice, I'd hate to have to swap in a new hub.