<blockquote><cite> batmick:</cite>There is one more thing you could do to waterproof the seatpost but only if you no longer move it up and down: There is a flexible, silicon based sealant called RTV. Comes in a tube. Just degrease the edge of the frame and the bottom 2-3mm of the post, then place a ring of RTV around the connection. It seals and cures in about an hour. Then it's waterproof and totally inert. But it's not a permanent connection, you can easily peel it off with your bare fingers when you no longer need it. Should be able to get it in any home improvement store
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If you can't find RTV, better than RTV: Mopar Differential Gasket sealer. It'll peal off, but it also sticks well to metal EVEN if you've got grease or other oil schtuff on it. It's grey, easy to slather and not to expensive. I think, for Bev's purposes, frame saver's probably the ticket. I bought some recently: all the frame builders swear by it, even if they are a pendantic curmudgeonly group.

rain seasons here and ive got some clothing questions.
i love riding in the rain. especially when its muddy and im just our and about.
i have thermal shirts, spandex riding shorts, mtb shorts, windbreaker, gloves(salsa winter gloves on the way)helmet liner, regular pants, jerseys, short sleeve wool jersey, riding socks and regular socks.

trying to figure the best way to layer for rain rides in the mountains.
i was thinking spandex then thin pants, double layer or riding socks, thermal shirt, wool jersey, windbreaker in that specific order....what do you think?

Check this out. I'm not always a fan of E assist stuff, but I like the idea that this thing also records data on conditions where you are riding and can be uploaded to a database (anonymously) to help with all kinds of mapping. wish I could see one in person to see if it really works.

there's really no negatives unless you can't get a brake to reach the newer smaller rim. being as the 700c rims is only just slightly smaller you're likely to not have an issue. by going to 700c you can get better rims, stainless spokes, and far more tire selection. there are some descent 27" tires but only a few.

So, I finally commuted on my new old bianchi mountain bike-townie conversion (see projects thread) on Thursday.
Not a huge ride (26 miles round trip) but I now a have a bit of knee pain.
I almost never get knee pain from riding so I'm thinking it must be the bike setup.
The frame is a touch small but doesn't feel cramped, and the cranks have biopace rings.
Has anyone else experienced knee pain potentially associated with the biopace system?
Sheldon Brown wrote that the system is actually "gentler on the knees than even round chainwheels", although the arguments for and against biopace are all over the web.

I agree with VC that knee pain is most likely caused by the saddle position just a tad off. Do your wrists and elbows and/or your neck hurt a little too?

My 2 cents on the Biopace: In theory they should be good and more ergonomic for the untrained cyclist because they support a pedal stroke that is more of the "stomping" kind rather than a round spin. However, if you are used to round rings and have trained yourself to an effective spin, switching back to the more elliptical motion of the Biopace could cause some pain. Might go away with time or it might screw up your stroke for all bikes...

if you do decide to ditch the biopace it's just a matter of buying new chainrings. round rings will fit right onto your existing cranks.

In Velo Cult the other day, they had some "Framesaver" on the counter ~ the spray about every frame builder mentions at least once for protecting the inside of steel frames. So, in breaking down the old Bianchi, something that hadn't been done in a LONG time, there was revealed a ton of..grease, grime, ect.. The question comes:

So, de-greaser? Specifically, chain degreaser, but one that may also be put in a bottle to spray on frame portions with a little grime build up? I'd like something that isn't toxic (like the coffee I made this morning), but something I could use as a chain soak and frame spray/wide off.

the reflective stickers that you can buy in bike shops is very effective. also the reflective leg bands that are meant to keep your pant leg out of the chain is also very reflective.

a non toxic chain clearer would be Simple Green or the citrus degreaser found at Home Depot. also, bike shops can get a bicycle specific degreaser thats called bio-something that is safe for environment.

the Frame Saver product is good stuff.

my Shimano SLX External bottom bracket stripped out and i have a truvativ gxp bottom bracket laying around but im not sure the compatibility. im going from 3 chainrings up front to a single if that changes anything. thanks in advance

This could be fun:

http://www.vetta.com/product_show.asp?ptype=whole&id=101



21 X 9 LEDs Taillight with User-Defined Messages

Hillbilly:I think I want to pick up a cheap, removable rear fender for these few days a year that it rains. Does anyone have any input and/or does Velo Cult have any in stock?

I recall "clip on" ones that just snapped onto the bike somehow....

Saw these: http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Clip-Front-Fender/dp/B000C1286G

I should build some out of the same plastic I use for the cargo box.

I need to switch to the new Bacchetta steel fork for the clearance, but I was thinking of doing that anyway to have the V-Brakes front and rear ... and because I just don't trust an Aluminum fork. Yeah, retro on a recumbent ... who knew?

Yep, Coroplast is what I have been using for bike cargo boxes since '94. If you have a heat gun, you can make it curve nicely.

My idea is to get the hardware from one of the wooden fender kits or (since I'm running 26" wheels) use long spokes for the stays.

Cecil:I just installed the new "Squeal Free" Canti Brake shoes/pads from Velo Orange and am really happy with them. I hadn't tried Kool Stops on these brakes but they are a huge improvement over the shoes/pads that came on the stock Tektros.

i have the tektro cantis on a bike and the front squeals so bad no matter what. ill have to check those pads out.:face-smile:

I'm building up a polo bike in the near future and am trying to figure out what to do about a crankset and chainrings. I think I want to go with a fixed/free wheel and either a double crankset with a bash guard or a triple with the big ring ground down into a bash guard.

Question 1 - Some cheap bmx cranks (origin 8 / bulletproof) say that they can be set up as a double...how is that done?

Question 2 - Is it possible to get the chainline spacing worked out for a double in the front and a freewheel/cog in the back?

Hillbilly:Question 1 - Some cheap bmx cranks (origin 8 / bulletproof) say that they can be set up as a double...how is that done?

Question 2 - Is it possible to get the chainline spacing worked out for a double in the front and a freewheel/cog in the back?

Both of those cranks have mounting positions on either side of the spider arms, so you can mount two chainrings, just like a typical road bike. My setup right now has a 53 tooth on the outside position with the teeth ground off to create a bashguard/chain guide. My chainring is mounted on the inside position (48 tooth, fits nicely behind the ground off 53tooth ring).

Chainline issues are harder to deal with, but can be addressed using longer or shorter axle bottom brackets. You'll have to run a longer bb than on a typical fixed gear if you have a chainring mounted on the inside anyway, but depending on what kind of chain line you need, you can get even longer. Problem you'll run into is excessive "Q", or distance between your feet, but that probably doesn't matter much for a polo bike.

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I've got a 1x9, so I use a 3/32", but there should be enough room for a 1/8", I'd think. If not, you could try adding small spacers to the outside ring/guard (since it won't be taking a load) but that might effect your chainring bolts too much.

I just did a look-over and repair on two pretty much brand new Univegas my neighbor picked up at a garage sale. Both bikes had less than 100 miles on them.

These were assembled by a local sporting goods store (NOT REI) and they were assembled BADLY:

1. Brake pads not aligned with rims.

2. Brakes not centered (V-Brakes).

3. Brake cable not adjusted.

4. Front derailler cable improperly routed.

5. Wheels out of true.

6. Index shifting not setup.

.. and on and on.

Mine works just fine. Cateye Strada Wireless. It mounts to the stem quite easily.

Anyone using the Magicshine 900 - 900 lumen Lightset?

I used to have a computer. I took it off to do some maintenance and never put it back. It turns out that knowing my speed at any instant isn't really a big need for me. I'm not often breaking the speed limit (and if I can I'd have a pretty good idea that I was), and it's generally more important to me to know how I'm doing relative to traffic, which the computer doesn't help at all.

I'm not getting to the point quickly enough here--I ended up using my iPhone for those stats (distance, time, avg. speed); I just chuck it in my bag. I don't *need* those stats but they're fun to look at and I certainly don't need them while I ride. I heartily recommend Cyclometer for this task; I was using ActiveX's GPS product but it isn't nearly as good for this purpose. So if you have an iPhone, consider that. I don't have to worry about the computer, and it's all logged right there on the iPhone. I've even got it twittering status updates to a separate account so it's easy for the wife to know when I'll be home for dinner. :)

usually a tire will get cut up and look like hell which will tell you it's time. if you don't ride daily the tire will start to get dry which will put little cracks in it too. if neither of those than when the tire has a flat top too it. a good tire will be round but a worn tire will have i big flat area making the tire look more square.

My tires seem to crack even though I'm riding them daily. Just a data point. Bike's left outside everyday, maybe that's why.

Related question: how much is "too much" out of true? My current bike is the same bike I had when I was in college quite a while ago, and too poor to replace the rear wheel when I tacoed the rims hitting a curb too fast. The front wheel got replaced, but I kept the rear, which I suppose is probably original (1980's). It is out of true enough to need to back off the brakes (and noticable when braking), and to need what is probably a lot of spoke tension variation (I can wiggle some spokes a bit, others are as tight as I dare). Luckily, it's still round.

This is probably one of those questions without a hard-and-fast answer.

(Edit: server/proxy hiccup)

Yeah, the rear was trued as best as they were able to do so at the UCSD bike shop circa '95 or so. I took the thing in to another shop for a tuneup when I started commuting 4 or 5 years ago, but they really didn't do squat except for maybe a lube and wipedown, no truing or "you should have that looked at". Wouldn't recommend that place. Got it a bit better a couple of years ago, but when the spokes on one side almost rattle it seems like it's time to consider a new rim. Didn't try jumping on it, though.

Might bring it in; the problem is I'd probably have to (shudder) drive! :face-crying: